Climbing competitions are fun! All this talk about scoring may make them sound intense, but they are more collaborative than ultra-competitive. Climbers want other climbers to climb well. You will likely have lots of cheerleaders encouraging you while you’re on the wall.
YKCC competitions are not just for experienced climbers. If you’re a novice – even if you’ve never climbed before – this is a great event to take part in. Every year we have people who use the YKCC comp as their first climbing experience.
At YKCC bouldering competitions, there are typically 30 routes that are ranked from easiest to hardest. The goal is not to climb the most routes, or to climb the most difficult route. Instead, want to earn the most points, with your score being the the sum of your top 5 routes.
Route #1 is worth 10 points, route #2 is worth 20 points, up to route #30 being worth 300 points, but you only get the full point value if you finish the route on your first attempt. If you finish on your second attempt, you get a 10% deduction. Finish on your third attempt and you get a 20% deduction. Finish after any number of attempts after that and you get a 30% reduction.
So, for example…
Route #18 on 1st attempt = 180 points
Route #20 on 2nd attempt = 200 – 10% = 180 points
Route #23 on 3rd attempt = 230 – 20% = 184 points
Route #26 on 4th attempt = 260 – 30% = 182 points
You can see there is strategy here. Do you climb really hard routes you might not be able to complete on your first attempt, or stick to routes you can finish easily? You also have to be mindful of your endurance – do you go hard early, or warm up to more difficult routes?
The math can get a little tricky with the scoring, but we’ll have a slick spreadsheet set up to do the calculating for you.
There will be too many people climbing at the same time for judges to track everything, so we ask that a witness initials your scorecard to verify you have completed a route. It can be helpful to climb with a buddy and initial each other’s score cards.
There will be lots of volunteers on hand to help with the competition. If you have any questions during the competition, don’t be afraid to ask!