The YKCC is bringing in a route setter and will be closing the gym from Feb 19-21 in order to set a number of bomber new routes. The route setter, Emrys Prussin, is a familiar face to some. He was up here in 2013 and volunteered at the gym. Since announcing this, there has been some chatter with the members, primarily “What, or who, is an EMRYS?”. In order to be transparent, the Board decided to shed some light on our route setter. We would like to formally introduce you to EMRYS (the Electrically Mechanize RouteY Setter v.1.2).
How long you been climbing, Emrys?
I have been climbing since 1998 and have had the chance to climb both routes and boulders in some amazing areas around the world. These have included the grassy boulders of the Aran Islands in Ireland, river walls of Yellowknife, Fontainbleu boulders and Ceuse cliffs of France, the mountainous cliffs of El Choro and the ocean bluffs of Mallorca in Spain, polished limestone in Yangshuo and Xianning China, the cobbles of Mapple Canyon in Utah, the steep routes of Rifle Colorado, the sharp crimps of the Bishop boulders in California, the sloping crystally boulders of Squamish, the seaside boulders of Nova Scotia and the smooth friendly sandstone boulders of Duncan BC. I have had experience on lots of different rock types, each with it’s own special movement and hold types.
What are you favourite climbs?
I love climbing steep boulder problems and routes as well as technical face-climbs that require precision footwork. The climbs that I find the most inspiring are simple and obvious lines, without too many holds. I’ve loved climbing Chain Reaction in Smith Rocks, Timeless in Squamish, and Into the Mystic and Jesus Save the Pushers on Vancouver Island.
What got you into route setting?
Having fun getting creative with friends. I’ve enjoyed setting on friend’s home walls where you get psyched with each other about the holds you have on hand and the cool movements you can try to make with them. I like setting dynamic problems that involve some sort of technical trickery, think heel-hooks and technical feet.
Any pro tips?
For myself I always climb my best when I’m having fun and feeling inspired and supported by my friends to try as hard as I can. This is what always keeps me coming back for more. Falling is always fun and funny and trying something lots of times is such a great way to improve.